![]() In this case I definitely did not want the horizon line in the centre of the image, thereby creating an obvious curvature. For the nightscape below I crawled under a cliff face that helped to nicely frame the Milky Way. ![]() Although this method is a bit more time-consuming, it puts me in complete control and more importantly gives me the freedom to only adjust the sections of the photo that I feel need it. The Warp tool provides the the most "flexible" option (pun intended). Photoshop has a number of built-in Transform tools that allow you to change the shape of whatever layer you are working on. The Warp Tool in Photoshop - This is my preferred method. Why? Olympus lenses are already optimized for digital photography, unlike the legacy glass of many other manufacturers. I shoot with Olympus lenses and none of these are listed. Further more, it contains a set of lens, filters and Ring Texture which adds awesome and unique effects to your photos. It is worth noting that not all lenses are listed within Lightroom. Fish Eye not only have a simulated 178-degree wide-angle view and a live fish eye viewfinder. If I wanted a narrower field of view I would just use a regular ultra-wide angle lens. This is the reason that I rarely use this option. This will straighten your horizon, and other lines, but in the process it will dramatically crop the photo, thereby reducing your field of view. Within the Develop panel of Lightroom you can select one of the available fisheye lens profiles and your fisheye photo will become a rectilinear one. Even the widest rectilinear lenses only have a field of view of about 120º - very wide, but not as wide as a fisheye lens with a field of view of 180º. The lines may end up converging or diverging a fair degree, but they remain straight. This means objects with straight lines (buildings, trees, the horizon) remain straight in the final image. Using Lens Profiles in Lightroom - This is the easiest method, but one I rarely use. This section alone could be a lengthy article so I will only give the methods a cursory look. There are a number of ways to skin a cat, or de-fish a photo. There are times when I am looking for the very wide field of view yet also want little to no obvious distortion. When I reach into my camera bag to pull out my fisheye lens, I completely understand the potential for distortion and am usually happy to live with the results. (Am I the only one that struggles with maintaining a level horizon?) It's a feature that I leave turned on almost all the time, regardless of which lens I'm using. I find myself relying heavily on the built-in levels (both horizontal and vertical) on my Olympus cameras. Another option is to crop some of the image in order to raise or lower the horizon - something I avoid if possible. When framing my subject I will try to put more weight into either the left or right half of the image and if possible into one of the corners. This, of course breaks that rule - sort of. One of the compositional rules that many landscape photographers follow is to never put the horizon in the centre (that whole Rule of Thirds thing). For example, in the sample images you will notice that the smaller trees near horizon line show no obvious curvature while the buildings that are a bit larger do show some. With more linear objects trees, buildings, roads, bridges and the like, the curve becomes more pronounced the closer that object is to the edge of the frame or the larger it is within the frame. It works particularly well when photographing irregularly shaped objects such as rocks, hills, clouds, etc. This doesn't mean that no distortion exists, it's just not as obvious. It's using a proprietary remapping that is not simple rectilinear defishing, which gives results some find more pleasing.If you want to avoid the obvious distortions that fisheye lenses are known for, there is a very easy fix - place the horizon line dead centre. This may be easier to use and suss than going into the overkill of using Hugin or PTGui off-label, as both those apps are centered around panorama stitching.Īnother popular tool for defishing is the commercial Fisheye-Hemi Photoshop plug-in. But there is one PT frontend that is dedicated solely to the task of lens correction, which is PTLens. However, since not everyone is a command-line jockey, there are also a number of Panorama Tools GUI front-ends to consider that can do the same thing, such as Hugin or PTGui. The Panorama Tools open source suite of command line tools includes the capability of lens correction-basically building a profile on the fly. Simply enable lens profile correction in Adobe Camera RAW (ACR) or Lightroom's Develop module, and the image will be defished. According to the Sigma website, both Sigma's 4.5 and 8mm circular fisheye lenses have profiles in Adobe's databases. If you're post-processing with Adobe software or software that understands Adobe's lens profiles, the easiest way to correct for the Sigma 8mm circular fisheye is to simply use a lens profile.
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